Mumbai, 7th Oct, 2025: When the Textile Recovery Facility (TRF) in Bengaluru opened its doors a year ago under the Saamuhika Shakti initiative, in August 2024, it was built on a simple but ambitious vision: to create an inclusive, circular textile waste management business that generates livelihoods for waste picker communities while reducing the environmental burden of textile waste. The TRF was started by Indumathi, a waste picker turned waste entrepreneur, with support from Circular Apparel Innovation Factory (CAIF), an Intellecap initiative and its implementation partner, Hasiru Dala. This initiative is part of CAIF’s flagship Closing the Loop on Textile Waste (CTL) Program.
Today, looking back at twelve months of experimentation, agility, and determination, the TRF is not just a facility—it has grown into an ‘at-scale’ model of aggregating post-consumer textile waste, has built a brand for itself, and has become a testing ground for pathways toward economic viability.

A Year of Resilience, Agility, and Improvisation

The TRF’s first year was not without challenges. Building a circular textile waste model meant navigating uncharted waters—scaling collection, navigating unpredictable markets, and evolving partnerships. Yet, resilience has been the hallmark of this journey.

Scaling Collection

• By January 2025, the Hub-and-Spoke model had taken its final form, with one TRF serving as the hub and 16 Dry Waste Collection Centres (DWCCs) functioning as spokes. Together, they collected over 30 MT of textile waste in January and reached a peak in April 2025 by collecting more than 51 MT of textile waste in a single month, showcasing the potential of decentralized waste management systems when they work in sync.
• Improvisation played a key role. The TRF piloted new waste streams, like tailoring waste from Shivaji Nagar, ensuring material segregation at source and supplying consistent feedstock to downcyclers in Tiruppur
• As part of the ‘Got Old Clothes’ campaign led by Saamuhika Shakti partner BBC Media Action, CAIF, in collaboration with Hasiru Dala, introduced an on-call textile collection service. Enabled through a dedicated WhatsApp number supported by a chatbot, this service facilitates the channeling of textile waste to both the Textile Recovery Facility (TRF) and Dry Waste Collection Centres (DWCCs), thereby broadening sourcing channels and strengthening the overall collection system.
• The TRF made a dedicated effort to include free-roaming waste pickers as part of the operations and empower as well as motivate them. One inspiring story came from Anitha, a free-roaming waste picker who, after visiting the TRF, mobilized her community to collect over 2.3 MT of textile waste—a clear example of grassroots ownership of the place-based circular economy model
• To establish an ‘at-scale’ aggregation model, the collection channels have been expanded to educational institutions, housing societies , hostels, book stores (eg. Atta Galatta) etc.

Navigating Unpredictable Markets

While scaling collection channels, the TRF also simultaneously focused on creating market linkages. The TRF secured its first bulk sales of post-consumer polyester and blended textiles (~9 MT in January) to buyers from Coimbatore/Tiruppur who repurpose the waste into industrial applications such as filler materials and building materials. By February, shipments scaled to ~30 MT, reinforcing the facility’s role as a bridge between waste recovery and industrial demand. However, owing to certain externalities, the bulk orders started to dry down. The TRF remained agile, took a decision not to tamper with the collection momentum, and resorted to renting extra space to store the polyester/blended textile waste. Over time, the bulk orders started to re-emerge.

Another avenue explored is the ‘Skills-as-a-Service’ model, developed in collaboration with Sambhav Foundation. In this model, leading upcyclers source post-consumer textile waste from the TRF. The waste is then directed to Sambhav Foundation’s Livelihood Resource Centres (LRCs), where women from waste picker families, trained in tailoring and related skills, transform it into finished products based on the upcyclers’ work orders. This collaboration not only creates a new revenue stream for the TRF but also generates dignified livelihood opportunities for women from waste picker communities

The TRF explores every avenue to maximize revenue — channeling higher-quality textile waste into resale and thrift markets (B2C), while ensuring that lower-quality waste is repurposed into business solutions such as industrial wipes (B2B). This diversification has allowed the facility to adapt, improvise, and sustain operations even when bulk orders slowed down.

Evolving Partnerships

The TRF is actively building partnerships with diverse stakeholders to strengthen and diversify its collection channels. Recent collaborations include Bangalore Apartments’ Federation (BAF), which facilitated the collection of over 500 kg of high-quality, resale-worthy textile waste, and multiple educational institutions, further expanding sourcing opportunities. By engaging a wider network of partners, TRF is ensuring a steady inflow of materials across quality segments while deepening its reach in the community.

he Textile Collection Drive, organised with Atta Galatta, saw citizens travel from across Bengaluru to responsibly discard their textile waste for recycling and upcycling, preventing it from ending up in landfills. | PC: Saamuhika Shakti

‍Indumathi at TRF: Leading with Heart, Inspiring Change

Behind the facility’s operations is a growing symbol of leadership Indumathi, a waste picker turned entrepreneur, whose journey embodies the transformative spirit of the TRF. Today, Indumathi is more than an individual; she is becoming a transformative voice for dignity, inclusion, and innovation in circular fashion. In the last one year, Indumathi represented the TRF at Bharat Tex 2025 and had the opportunity to present about her work and journey to the honourable Prime Minister of India at the event. Indumathi has also been featured in podcasts, YouTube channels, and prominent media like The Hindu.

Through her leadership, Indumathi has mentored others in identifying fabrics, sorting waste, and building market-ready products. She has also engaged with young changemakers—hosting school students at the TRF to demonstrate how waste can be turned into value-added products.

Her presence and expertise have highlighted the human dimension of the TRF story, showing that circular economy solutions are not just about technology, but also about people and communities.

Over the last few years, I have seen a massive transformation in my own life, from being a waste picker to becoming an operator and entrepreneur. I speak as a single waste picker, but there are millions of us worldwide. We are part of this world and if we do not organise ourselves into strong collectives, we cannot bring change. I dream of a better future for us. Waste pickers should no longer be invisible to society. — Indumathi, a waste picker turned operator and entrepreneur; as featured in It Matters, H&M Foundation’s newsletter

These collaborations amplify the message that Indumathi—and, by extension, the TRF—is a credible partner for brands, industries, and consumers looking to support inclusive circular solutions.

Journey Toward Economic Viability and Sustainability: Testing Different Waters

For any new model, sustainability is as much about economics as it is about setting up processes. Over the past year, the TRF has systematically tested different waters to chart its pathway to viability and sustainability.

Achieving break-even has been the north star for the TRF. The revenue being earned is being fully injected into the business as operational expenses.

A key learning has been that forward integration and venturing into the secondary material business are going to be key to maximising revenue. The TRF is piloting the production of industrial wipes from post-consumer textiles, targeting sectors like automotive, paints, and pharmaceuticals. It also showcased samples at Toyota’s Green Exhibition and explored partnerships for scaling wipes production. Parallelly, visits from global players like Decathlon and Syre highlighted the TRF’s potential to become part of the global supply chains of the textile industry. Lastly, the TRF is establishing a ‘Textile Processing Unit’ to shred polyester/blended textile waste to increase its acceptance to allied industries like the mattress-making industry and textile-board making industry.

On the B2C front, pop-up thrift stores have been rolled out, starting with the Hasiru Habba festival, where pre-loved garments found eager buyers and generated revenue.

Thrifting Pilot at Hasiru Habba. | PC: Saamuhika Shakti

‍The model was scaled up as Navajeevana Thrift Pop-Up Store at the Lalbagh Flower Festival marking the first public-facing initiative of this kind. Over 12 days, the pop-up sold 115 kg of quality pre-loved clothing diverted from landfills, generating over Rs 26,000 in revenues. On average, each piece of pre-loved clothing generated three times more revenue compared to selling it to resellers. This pilot established the fact that Thrifting is going to be an important avenue to reach the economic viability of the TRF.

The Navajeevana Thrift Pop-Up Store at the Lalbagh Flower Festival in August 2025. | PC: Hasiru Dala

‍These thrift experiments are helping assess demand, refine product curation, and expand the consumer-facing side of the circular model.

• A dedicated resource has been onboarded at the TRF to conduct rigorous market scouting, meeting potential buyers, show samples and crack business deals. The resource is also actively involved in setting up and managing pop up thrift stores.
• The other aspect of sustainability and viability is about building capacity. The team from Hasiru Dala, CAIF’s implementation partner, has been closely associated with the TRF operations from the beginning- especially for record keeping and market linkages. These skills are gradually being passed to the TRF staff through training, handholding, and supportive supervision.

These steps underline that viability is not just about one revenue stream but about creating an ecosystem where multiple pathways—bulk sales, B2B products, thrift markets, upcycled goods—are integrated to stabilize and grow the model.‍

Road Ahead: From Proof of Concept to Scalable Blueprint

Over the past year, the TRF in Bengaluru has demonstrated that community-led circular models are not only possible but also powerful. Through strategic collaborations with Saamuhika Shakti partners BBC Media Action, Hasiru Dala, and Sambhav Foundation as well as with community and educational institutions, the TRF has expanded its collection channels, diversified revenue streams, and laid the foundation of a system that is resilient, adaptable, and rooted in dignity for waste pickers.

As the TRF enters its second year, the focus is on strengthening economic viability by scaling tested models, expanding partnerships with brands and industries to integrate textile recovery into mainstream supply chains, and deepening grassroots ownership so that more waste pickers see this work not merely as survival, but as opportunity. The TRF’s story so far is one of resilience, collaboration, and economic experimentation, and its future promises consolidation, scale, and systemic impact—turning Bengaluru’s textile waste challenge into a model of circular innovation for the country and beyond.

Read it on Saamuhika Shakti’s Quarterly Edition, Sept 2025 Issue- Click Here

Efforts to reach a Global Plastics Treaty failed, leaving investors to drive the agenda forward, reports Jennifer Forrest

UN-led negotiations to develop an international legally binding agreement on plastic pollution prevention failed on Friday.

Sustainability-themed investors are disappointed by the outcome, but pledged to drive the agenda forward, amid hopes COP30 in Brazil could help drive interest in the theme.

A fresh round of negotiations for the Global Plastics Treaty in Geneva, Switzerland, over the past two weeks did not produce any form of deal or agreement, despite being extended for an extra day.

Disagreements centred on whether to focus on reducing virgin plastic production or mitigating pollution through better management, with mostly oil-producing nations, calling for a focus on recycling.

Negotiations – known as the Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee (INC) – involved more than 2,600 participants, including government ministers and other high-level representatives, observers and member delegates.

The INC began negotiating the Global Plastics Treaty in 2022. Previous negotiations in South Korea last December, also failed to secure agreement on a final text, and instead agreed a draft treaty – the ‘Chair’s Text’ – to be used as a starting point in this fresh negotiation round.

It is expected that the INC will set a future date to resume negotiations, although when this will be announced remains unclear.

Although global pressure to reach an agreement remains, investors fear the latest setback means success is increasingly uncertain.

Circulate Capital’s founder and chief executive Rob Kaplan was pessimistic ahead of the negotiations, predicting that it was “unlikely” the end result would be highly ambitious in its wording.

He tells Environmental Finance the outcome is “disappointing, but not surprising”: “I still have hope that there are areas where there is global consensus, such as on improving waste management and standardising data and information.

“But a strong treaty is not the only path forward. There’s still room for coalitions of the willing – governments, companies, and investors – to move now on solutions we know work.”

Despite the Treaty’s latest breakdown, Schroders urges sustainable finance investors to plough ahead with investing in plastic alternatives.

“It is important [that] investors help maintain momentum when it comes to action on plastics,” Stephanie Williams, natural capital and biodiversity specialist at Schroders, says. “We believe investors must continue efforts to assess their exposure to plastic-related externalities and engage companies in line with the expectations we set out.”

Another key issue during talks regarded the mobilisation of capital towards developing countries to promote recycling and move away from plastic production.

Siddharth Lulla, partner at Intellecap – the advisory arm of Indian impact investor Aavishkaar Group – suggests blended finance vehicles are a way to achieve this, and investors should not wait for a global consensus.

“The investor community must provide the scaffolding on which future treaties can
stand,” he adds.

“Investors can also expand the use of outcome-based financing models, where returns are tied to measurable results, such as tonnes of plastic prevented from leakage, recyclate produced, or households newly served by collection systems.”

Kaplan believes the finance community could be a “significant force” with local policymakers and in regional investment opportunities, amid the withdrawal on a global stage.

“We know that smart policies enable investment opportunities and drive economic
development. Circulate Capital is not alone in this [view], but policymakers do not always understand the nuances and implications,” he says. “The investor community needs to continue to talk about where policies have had an impact – positive and negative – on the investments we’ve made.”

In lieu of policy change, investors should “double-down on scalable models” through capital allocation into reducing plastic reliance in value chains, “engage proactively” alongside working groups to align investor perspectives and practical measures, and “align messaging” with foundations and industry bodies to create pragmatic pathways away from plastic, according to Circularity Capital partner Jamie Butterworth.

Positive moves for circular economy finance came earlier this year, as the International Finance Corporation (IFC) published its ‘Harmonised Circular Economy Finance Guidelines’, providing consensus and standardisation as to what
constitutes a ‘circular investment’.

But many institutional investors are moving slowly on plastic-related investing. Circulate’s Kaplan said asset owners are “more talk than action” regarding their role, while Intellecap’s Lulla pointed to “slow” movement among the large institutional investors on incorporating plastic-related risks into their ESG frameworks.

Looking ahead to COP30 in November, investors hope to see standard-setting and clear target setting for reusing and recyclability and the promotion of plastic alternatives, in the shadow of the INC’s next round of negotiations.

“Communications from COP should clearly evidence the commercial benefits of circular business models: demonstrating to businesses, investors, and policymakers that these strategies are not just environmentally essential, but economically compelling,” Circularity’s Butterworth says.

Cornelia Frentz, the director of governance and sustainable investing at the European Circular Bioeconomy Fund (ECBF), believes the COP in Belem will provide the “ideal forum” for creating policies and thresholds for tackling plastic waste, in the absence of the Treaty.

“Fortunately, the EU has introduced an extended producer responsibility scheme, requiring manufacturers to finance collection and recycling. Such international policies, along with robust enforcement mechanisms, must be expanded and strengthened,”

she adds. “COP 30 presents an opportunity to agree on these policies and targets, and to take concrete steps toward their effective implementation.”

Investors also called on the redesign of alternative materials and promotion of embedded accountability for producers.